Crocs. The injection-molded foam clogs are equal parts design punch line and design icon, a symbol of ceasing to care about how you look for the sake of comfort. For years, I’ve looked at people wearing Crocs as many do: with a sort of jealous horror. And I’m not the only one.
“Love us or hate us, I think we relish in the polarization of our designs,” says Michael Sarantakos, the company’s head of global design.
But now,Crocsis releasing a clog that even hypebeasts can love. Designed by Salehe Bembury—a renowned sneaker designer who has created shoes for Yeezy, Versace, Anta, and New Balance—the new clog features an expressive, undulating texture, along with a full heel and a subtly tailored front toe.Following a decade of stagnant sales, Crocs has come back to life, with double-digit revenue growth in 2019 and 2020. Thus far, 2021 is poised to be a breakout year, as Crocs projects between 62% and 65% growth this year alone.
Michelle Poole, the president of Crocs who joined the company seven years ago, has considerable experience in dusting off footwear icons, viewing them as blank canvases for cultural expression. “I worked at Timberland with the yellow boot, Sperry with the boat shoe, and Converse with Chuck Taylors,” Poole says. “One of the first things we did when I came into the brand was we needed to make our iconic classic clog relevant. That was the very heart of the brand turnaround. We didn’t have an awareness problem. If you drew an outline of our clog, I’d say it’s as recognizable as a Coke bottle. But we had a relevance issue, where people said, ‘I know the brand, but the brand isn’t for me.'”
With Bembury, Crocs saw an opportunity to widen its own market appeal by tapping into his passionate, sneaker-loving fan base. But like most collaborations across industries these days, Crocs collabs to date have been superficial. Crocs clogs were recolored and reskinned, sure, but they never broke the mold. Literally.
“One thing I learned from working with [Ye] was the importance of shape, so I really execute that with a lot of products,” Bembury says.
Bembury made only one significant update to the Crocs clog silhouette. He shaved down the front toe—which has a borderline anachronistic slope that resembles a historic, Danish wooden shoe—to read ever-so-slightly like a sleeker sneaker. This change required a tweak to the Crocs last (the proprietary foot mold upon which Crocs shapes its shoes), but the minimal update ensures that the new Crocs will still feel like the old Crocs.
The final product is priced at $85—which is about $30 more than a typical Crocs clog, but still inexpensive compared to the price of many of Bembury’s collaborations, especially on resale sites like StockX. In this sense, Sarantakos believes the partnership is a true example of democratic design. It’s not just a designer shoe sold on the cheap; it’s a comfortable shoe sold in the body of a designer shoe.
But with the collectible sneaker market as it is today, does Crocs really anticipate the new shoe to be widely available? Or will it be yet another exclusive sneaker drop that you can’t cop? “It’s that balance,” Poole says. “We want to try to satisfy as many consumers as possible, but not leave anything on the shelf gathering dust.”
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