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Bolt Threads recently announced it would stop producing Mylo. But that doesn’t mean the end of mushroom leather as an industry.

Mushroom leather was supposed to revolutionize fashion. Then a promising startup halted production

[Source Images: Arbutus Graphics/Getty Images, Steven Mcdowell/Science Photo Library/Getty Images, Xuanyu Han/Getty Images]

BY Kristin Toussaint7 minute read

In 2018, sustainable materials company Bolt Threads debuted Mylo, its mycelium-based leather—and for many in the textile space, it signaled that a viable alternative to animal leather was in clear view. Big name brands from Stella McCartney to Adidas expressed interest and even launched products with Mylo, from a concept Stan Smith shoe to a limited-run luxury handbag. Subsequently, Bolt Threads raked in more than $300 million in investments. In September 2021, Bolt said its mushroom leather was ready for commercial production.

Less than two years later, production of Mylo has been paused indefinitely.

The news that Bolt Threads was halting production may seem like a death knell for emerging sustainable materials. In an interview explaining the move, the startup pointed to the challenges of the current economic climate for securing capital, an issue that could plague any fledgling company.

[Photo: courtesy Adidas]

But experts say Bolt’s shutdown doesn’t necessarily mean the end of mushroom leather as an entire industry. Startups like MycoWorks and Ecovative are still working on their own mycelium-based materials, and a host of others are exploring the possibilities of leather alternatives made of everything from pineapple to cactus to coconut.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Kristin Toussaint is the staff editor for Fast Company’s Impact section, covering climate change, labor, shareholder capitalism, and all sorts of innovations meant to improve the world. You can reach her at ktoussaint@fastcompany.com. More


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