Ever since we hit peak cronut, dreaming up the next hybrid frankenfood has become something of a culinary arms race. On the high end, foodie havens like Brooklyn’s Smorgasburg have been pushing the ramen burger (side note: it’s alriiight), while lower-brow fast food chains like Taco Bell are now assembling breakfast tacos made with waffles.
None of those really held a sugary torch, mind you, to pastry chef Dominique Ansel’s original masterpiece, which at one point drew lines around the block that stretched for more than two hours. But this–this–re-imagined ice cream sandwich by Los Angeles chef Sylvia Yoo might be the closest thing we’ve seen yet. Because churros.
According to Chow, Yoo’s resume is stacked with stints at legendary New York restaurants like Jean Georges and WD-50. Her guerrilla pop-up, Churro Borough, has actually been around since 2011. Its claim to fame is it takes the original ice cream sandwich perfected by Hollywood staples like Diddy Riese and replaces the cookies/brownies with a cinnamon and sugar-drenched pastry that shucks the tube shape for a sandwich-friendly spiral.
“When I moved back to L.A., it was the beginning of the ice cream boom, with places like Carmela and Sweet Rose opening shop,” Yoo told Chow. “Working in pastry, ice cream was always my favorite thing to make and eat. I had dreams of running my own business, but I knew I needed my product to stand out.”
And now, we’re the midst of a churro ice cream sandwich groundswell. The question, of course, is where to taste it? Churro Borough will be at the L.A. Street Food Festival on June 28 and at Tasting Table’s Lobster Rumble West on August 1, with other pop-ups planned throughout the summer.