The Scandinavian fashion scene is known for its innovative treatment of volume and texture. Blame it on the long, dark winters or the culturally ingrained enthusiasm for minimalism–you’ll find some of the most avant-garde silhouettes in the world on the streets of Helsinki, Stockholm, and Copenhagen. But converting that aesthetic into warm-weather wear can be a challenge (two words: summer wool).
Nakkna, a young Swedish label known for its moody winter palettes and voluminous overcoats, has taken on the challenge with Geometrical Construction, a summer line of playful (and somehow, still starkly minimal) pieces based on simple polygons and platonic solids.
Each of the pieces in Geometrical Construction is based on a shape or volume. There are square T-shirts, pyramid dresses, and circle tees. There is a polygon blouse. Each piece is rendered in cotton jersey or Italian silk, with minimal detailing. Seen stretched from hangers or on the floor, the shapes are clearly legible. But donned by a model, the garments become billowing masses of silk and cotton. Working with filmmaker Thomas Brown, Nakkna produced a series of films that show each piece on a rack (as a shape) and on a model (as a garment). In the films, models pull and pluck at the shape garments as they deform and change colors. The collection frames the natural tension between designer and consumer, where the role of the model becomes part of the design.
Nakkna, which was founded by three Beckmans College of Design graduates in 2003, went through a period of financial struggle last year. With this line, they’re pivoting to a broader consumer audience. The literalism of the shapes actually makes a lot of sense for summer: Flowing dresses and soft jerseys in yellows and blues are perfect for sweltering heat. Each piece is both a visual joke (my shirt is literally a square!) and utilitarian garment (it also keeps me cool).
No word yet on whether Nakkna’s menswear line will include a pair of icosahedron pantaloons.