If fish had origin stickers, there’s a good chance dinner would read “made in China.” “Almost 50% of the fish we eat now is farmed,” says Simon Wilkinson of the Network of Aquaculture Centers in Asia-Pacific — and China produces about two-thirds of these hydro-critters. Advances in genetic modification and deep-sea ranching have made aquaculture one of the fastest-growing agricultural sectors in China, but a number of questions have also surfaced. Sustainability and food safety are big topics at this Bangkok conference. “It’s not a very high-profile industry,” says Wilkinson, “and a lot of the publicity it does get is bad publicity from environmental groups.” Not that he’s fishing for compliments. — LC
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