For all its shiny green future, Volkswagen has a dark and complicated past. Nowhere do those two disparate sides present themselves more starkly than in the company's headquarters of Wolfsburg, Germany. It's a one-horse town of 120,000. The factory employs some 48,000, and more than 2 million a year visit the 61-acre Autostadt, a celebration of all things VW, with pavilions, exhibits, even a mini track where kids can become kinder-licensed and drive wee electric Beetles.