The Secret Life of Grapes

Sonoma County

David Coffaro Vineyard and Winery: 7485 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville; 707-433-9715. In Dry Creek Valley, about eight miles north of Healdsburg.

Big Picture: A California winery on the verge of big-time discovery. Superb Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Open by appointment only, but Coffaro welcomes drop-ins.

Advisory: Get in quick. Like a hot IPO, some California wineries become almost unobtainable. Coffaro seems destined for that status.

When to Go: Dry Creek Valley is worth visiting in any season. Stay away during harvest (September and October), though, as small wineries such as Coffaro have their hands full.

Also Check Out: Jordan Vineyard and Winery, 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg; 707-431-5250. Just a few miles northeast of Healdsburg in Alexander Valley. A beautiful winery housed in an elegant manor. The Cabernet Sauvignon is consistently one of California's best. By appointment only.

Another Prime Eatery: Taqueria El Sombrero (below), 245 Center Street, Healdsburg; 707-433-3818. A lowdown-but-popular-with-the-locals Mexican restaurant. The Sanchez family puts together heroic burritos and tacos with your choice of nine different meats, including (proof of real Mexican authenticity) brains, tripe, and tongue, as well as more conventional pork, beef, and chorizo sausage.

Hot Tip: Dry Creek and Alexander valleys are ideal for cycling. You can rent touring bikes at Spoke Folk Cyclery, just off the plaza in Healdsburg; 707-433-7171.

Napa Valley

Jarvis vineyards: 2970 Monticello Road, Napa; 707-255-5280. Take Trancas Street east out of Napa, which becomes Monticello Road. Follow the winery's directions to the entrance gate.

Big Picture: One of the world's most spectacular winery facilities, entirely underground in a circular tunnel. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are especially fine. Open by appointment only; touring and tasting fee: $10.

Advisory: It's worth making time to see Jarvis, as there's no other winery structure quite like it. And check out the bathrooms -- they're palatial.

When to Go: Napa Valley is worth visiting in any season. February is the ideal month for serious visiting, as the weather is mild, the vineyard rows are golden with flowering mustard, and tourists are nowhere to be seen.

Also Check Out: The Hess Collection Winery, 4411 Redwood Road, Napa; 707-255-1144. The Hess Collection is housed in an old stone winery. Elegantly restored by Swiss multimillionaire Donald Hess, it houses part of his vast collection of (very) modern art. Good wine, too, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting daily, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Be sure to allow enough time to see the art gallery.

Mayacamas Vineyards: 1155 Lokoya Road, Napa; 707-224-4030. In Napa Valley, northwest of the city of Napa. Getting to Mayacamas takes some driving -- all uphill on a road full of switchbacks. Call for directions!

Big Picture: One of Napa's oldest wineries. Great Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Be sure to buy one of Mayacamas's older wines, which are available only at the winery. Bob Travers recommends that the Cabernet Sauvignon be consumed at 12 to 25 years of age. Open by appointment only.

Advisory: Mayacamas is undeniably off the beaten track, which alone makes it worth seeing. It's located in the Mount Veeder subdistrict, along with several other wineries. All the wines share a familial resemblance. The reds and whites are earthy, rich, and long-lived.

When to Go: Winter on Mount Veeder is rainy, but any other time is swell.

Other Napa Lodgings: Several no-fee reservation services help you find Napa Valley lodgings: Accommodations Referral, 800-240-8466; Napa Valley Tourist Bureau Reservations, 707-944-1558; and Wine Country Reservations, 707-257-7757.

Another Prime Eatery: Mustard's Grill, 7399 St. Helena Highway/Highway 29, Yountville; 707-944-2424. Even after a decade, Mustard's still does California cuisine better than any other Napa Valley restaurant. It's noisy, close-packed, and a favorite among winegrowers. Huge wine list. Reservations recommended.

Matt Kramer is the author of three books on wine, is a wine columnist for the Los Angeles "Times" and "Wine Spectator" magazine. He lives in Portland, Oregon