The wines' longevity comes from the vines. The Chardonnay vines are 20 to 50 years old, planted in stony soil. They yield no more than a ton of grapes per acre -- just 25% of the average yield from vineyards on the valley floor.

Bob and Nonie Travers bought Mayacamas in 1968. Their winery, housed in an old stone structure dating to the late 1800s, has some of the most rudimentary wine-making equipment I've seen in California.

"I don't do anything to the wine," insists Bob Travers, when I ask about his wine-making technique. "I just nurse these old vines and accept their low yields."

What an understatement. The Chardonnay, especially, is heavenly -- among the best in the world. An older Mayacamas Chardonnay, say 10 years or more after the vintage, practically explodes with a deliciously buttery, honey-flavored taste. French Chablis is the nearest equivalent.

Prime Napa Sleep Cross-valley from Mayacamas, Auberge du Soleil is Mediterranean in style: 50 rooms and suites in cottages with stucco whitewashed walls and cool tile floors. It sits on a hilltop, amid a 33-acre grove of olive trees. From here, the view of the Napa Valley floor is one vast, tufted rug of vines. This is a place to unwind.

I stroll into the bar and order the wine writer's secret restorative: a cold beer. The bartender smiles. "Been visiting wineries, eh?" I sure have.

Coordinates: Auberge du Soleil, 180 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford; 800-348-5406. Rates vary according to room and season, $175 to $1,300.

Sidebar: Wine List

Before you head out, remember these two essential facts for successful wine touring.

First, there's no such thing as "California wine country." The whole state is one big vineyard, so you have to be selective. Choose a square -- Napa, Sonoma, or Mendocino -- and land on it. Don't bite off more grape than you can chew.

Second, contrast is everything. The best wine tours embrace the extremes : palaces and artisan's ateliers. Not only is it fun to see how big money is spent -- and heartwarming to see humble craft wineries -- it's also profoundly instructive. You discover that great wine comes from somewhere -- namely, vineyards that have intrinsic character. Even if you know nothing about the wine, you can sense this "somewhereness" in every glass.

Mendocino County

Roederer Estate: 4501 Highway 128, Philo; 707-895-2288. On the main road through Anderson Valley, three miles north of Philo.

Big Picture: California's best sparkling-wine producer. Among its innovations is an "open lyre" trellis system for training vines on moveable wires, so the grower can better control the vines' exposure to sunlight. The elegant, redwood winery is open daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Advisory: Try the special l'Ermitage bottling, as well as the rosé. Magnums are available at the winery -- they're almost unobtainable anywhere else.

When to Go: Summer and fall are best for the Anderson Valley, as it's cool and rainy during winter and early spring.

Also Check Out: Navarro Vineyards, 5601 Highway 128, Philo; 707-895-3686. One of Anderson Valley's best wine producers, Navarro Vineyards makes exceptional Riesling and Gewürztraminer, as well as a steadily improving Pinot Noir. The winery has a loyal following, selling most of its wines by mail (800-537-9463).

Germain-Robin: 5000 Low Gap Road, Ukiah; 707-462-3221. Five miles off Highway 101, northwest of Ukiah. Big Picture Some of the world's best brandy is made here, distilled by hand, using copper-pot stills imported from France. Germain-Robin is aged in small, Limousin oak barrels, which give the brandies a long, rich finish. Open by appointment only.

Advisory: Try the deep, rich XO bottling ($100), and any special single-barrel bottlings ($125) that might be available. Cigar smokers should ask for the Cigar Blend ($95).

When to Go: Spring, summer, and fall are best for the Redwood Valley area.

Also Check Out: Jepson Vineyards, 10400 South Highway 101, Ukiah; 707-468-8936. Located three miles north of Hopland, Jepson makes one of California's best Sauvignon Blancs, as well as a very good Chardonnay. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Prime Eatery: The Boonville Hotel (above) in Boonville, 14050 Highway 128; 707-895-2210. Chef-owner John Schmitt keeps the menu simple, fresh, and unpretentious. All the Anderson Valley wines you can handle, at good prices.

Another Prime Sleep: The Albion River Inn, 3790 Highway 1 North; 707-937-1919. Just north of Anderson Valley. Rustic clapboard cabins dot the coastal headlands where the Albion River runs into the Pacific. $160 to $250 per night.