Lone
Star Auto Engine DallasWhen the engine finally reaches the end of the
road, a painful choice has to be made: spend whatever it takes to fix or replace
the original engine, or get rid of the vehicle and buy another. Either way it is
going to cost money. A car dealer won't give much for a trade-in that has a bad
engine. The only way to get rid of a car or truck with a bad engine is to junk
it or sell it as a mechanic's special or fixer-uppper. Either way, it won't sell
for much money.

Replacing the engine on a vehicle that is more than 12
to 14 years old is usually not worth the cost, unless the vehicle is a classic,
an antique or has special value. Engine replacement makes the most economic
sense on vehicles that are four to 12 years old, and are still in good condition
and worth repairing.
Lone Star Engine
Ring End-Gap
Your automotive machine shop should have installed the new
pistons onto your connecting rods so your first operation is to check ring
end-gap in the engine block. Ring end-gap is the amount of space left between
the ends of the piston ring when it is compressed and installed in the engine
block. You can purchase either "pre-gapped" piston rings or "file-fit," which
are oversize with smaller gaps. This allows you to file the ends of the rings
for the end-gap you desire. Most hobbyists use pre-gapped rings because it saves
considerable time and effort. Racers who are always looking for that last little
bit of power file-fit their rings for less blow-by through the gap. Regardless
of which style of rings you buy, you must check the end-gap of the top and 2nd
rings by evenly pushing them down the cylinder bore approximately one inch.
Using the top of the piston to "square" them up in the bore works really well.
Then, using a strip feeler gauge, measure the ring end-gap. The correct gap can
be found in the instructions in the ring box or in any good engine manual. A
general rule of thumb is .004-inch end-gap per 1.00-inch bore diameter. A
4.00-inch bore engine would require .016-inches of end-gap. If the gap is too
small the end of the ring can be filed for a larger gap—just be sure to smooth
off the edges with a fine sharpening stone after using the file. If the gap is
too large, exchange the ring set for a file-fit set and custom gap each
compression ring.

Lone Star Engine Dallas

Lone Star Engine: Steps
If you're new to this process, there
are few things that will make it go faster. Before applying any part with an
adhesive backing, thoroughly cleaning the surface that will be covered with MEK
(methyl ethyl ketone), a strong chemical thinner that removes oil and grease.
Careful when using this solvent, however, because it can be toxic.

Before you peel back the film covering the adhesive on the billet
part, test-fit the part to the location. You may need to make a small mark with
a grease pencil or other removable marker to help line up the edges properly.
Once you're satisfied with the positioning, remove the film to expose the
adhesive backing and press the part in place. Don't try to move it around after
it's been positioned.
Lone Star Engine
Installation
Lone Star Auto Engine
Lone
Star Engine Installation

On '85 and earlier Mustangs, the fuel
system has to be retrofitted with a tank and lines from '86 to '93 models (about
$200, used). In addition, Sanchez recommends replacing the stock 7.5-inch rear
end with the stouter 8.8 unit, which includes larger Cobra disc brakes. That
runs about $1,000, driveshaft included.

Putting a mod motor into
late '60s to '78 Mustangs is much more involved, a six-month project that
requires cutting out the shock towers, installing a new K-member and replacing
the front suspension with a Mustang II setup. That project is for those with
deeper pockets and/or lots of mechanical experienc